I am crate training my toy poodle/maltese mix?

She is 2 months old and was doing great in crate training. Now I take her on a walk and she does her business, when I put her in confinement and leave, she poops in her crate even if it is for 15 minutes! What should I do?If your puppy is going inside her crate it is b/c she does not like the crate. This is fixable…but keep inmind that if after attempts to fix it it doesn’t work, some dogs just can not be crate trained. In which case using baby gates and blocking off areas can be just as effective as crate training.

Take a look at this article it talks about crate soiling and how to help fix it as well as causes to why they might be doing it

www.veterinarypartner.com/Content…

Hey Christina,

I’ve answered a very similar question to this, so I am just going to take what I wrote and paste it. It will be 100% applicable to you and your dog. I know it’s hard, but crate training is the best thing you can do for your dog. The best thing you can do for potty training is set him up for success. Puppies learn to use the restroom away from their litter and resting place. Utilizing a crate will reinforce this. If he starts going whenever he wants, while you have the door open, you will be reinforcing using the restroom inside, whenever he pleases.

The good news is, you can teach your dog that his crate is a happy place to be. Here are some things you can do to make it a good resting place.

-put a blanket or pad in there

-put one of your shirts in there – the scent will comfort him

-put his favorite toy in there

-stuff a Kong ball with treats or stuff peanut butter in there and then freeze it (this will last a long time). Dogs love these and it keeps them entertained for however long the treats last.

Make sure you don’t keep food or water in the crate. It’s best to have a schedule of eating times outside of his crate, so he doesn’t fill his bladder or stomach with a potential accident. Also, make sure he doesn’t have a lot of excess room in the cage, or he will use the space as a restroom. Make sure you heavily reward and praise him for using the restroom outside.

All puppies are different, but a good rule of thumb for how long a puppy should hold off (in hours) on using the restroom is their age in months plus one. Give him plenty of exercise, so he will rest easy while you are gone.

I got my 12 week old Border Collie about 2.5 months ago and he has only had two accidents in the crate. Once he matures and gets older, you can gradually increase his freedom, but you need to make sure he is always succeeding, so don’t move too fast. If he does happen to have an accident, remember he has been in the world for 9 weeks and still has a lot of learning to do. You don’t sound like the type of person that would rub his nose in it, scold, yell or physically reprimand your puppy, but some people do and this is a horrible way to potty train and an even worse way to build a relationship with your pup. The key is consistency.

I hope this helps. Good luck with your training!

Edit:

I just want to emphasize the exercise part. Anytime you need to leave him in his crate, he should be heavily exercised before-hand. Excess energy can factor into heaps of behavioral problems, including anxiety/frustration which can stimulate the bowels and bladder.

Were you referring to the water and food in the cage? If you are worried about him being dehydrated, just make sure he drinks after strenuous activity, but give him about an hour to empty his bladder before he crates up. If you consistently do these things, he should learn. If he does not, I would encourage you to have him checked out at the vet. With respect, you need to read a couple of books or watch some videos on raising and training dogs. I also suggest you watch two TV shows that would be helpful: "The Dog Whisperer," with Cesar Millan, on Nat. Geo., and "It’s Me or the Dog," with Victoria Stillwell, on Animal Planet. Both are excellent programs and will help you with all such issues. how big is her crate, i have a small dog and i had to get a divider to put in the crate so she does not use one end for sleeping and one end for pottymaybe she has too much room in her crate…if it is a large crate I would put up something to block her from accessing the entire crate.

Star is always hungry, I feed her in the morning, and within ten minutes she wants whatever it is I am preparing to eat myself.

She understands to leave our food alone, yet the other day she decided to grab a sandwich from my boyfriends plate to scoff down, while he turned his back for a moment to change the channel !!

I am wondering is this normal Staffie behaviour ? Or is this my dog being greedy ?

How many times do you guys feed your dog & how much ? Can you leave food in the bowl all day for them to help themselves or do they eat it all straight away as my dog does.

A Few Questions About Parvo?

My dog just died of Parvo (12 week old rottweiler puppy!) We thought we caught it early enough, took him to the vet they injected like water or something in his back (it made him look like a camel) they said that it would soak into his body and help him with the dehydration. they also gave him something would coat his intestines to help with it or something i don’t really know the whole thing….but i have A LOT of questions that I was hoping that someone could answer….

1. What is the best treatments or parvo? I know that there is no cure but did my vet miss something or is there something more that he could have done?

2. Is it true that rottweilers have bad immune systems?

3. If a dog gets parvo, can it get it again? Or is it like us when we get a virus where you can get it if it’s a different strain?

4. My sister said that parvo is kind of like a humans version of the ebola virus, is that true?

5. A friend of mine couldn’t afford the puppy so i took him off of his hands…when i received him i didn’t know that he had only had 1 of those 3 shots that they are supposed to get when they are puppies. If he had been up to date on his shots…would the puppy still have received parvo if he had been up to date on his shots? I ask that because I will sue him (if i can) for letting the puppy get 2 shots behind and not telling me about it… anyway…thanks for the help….1) Usually intravenous fluids and intravenous antibiotics are required (getting put on a drip). Your dog was given fluids under the skin to help his dehydration. This does not get absorbed as efficiently as intravenous fluids.

2) Not that I’ve heard. Immunity is not breed-specific.

3) Never sure about this one actually, I think it depends on a variety of factors e.g. strain caught, age of dog, severity of infection etc. I THINK if a dog survives parvo he would have immunity to it for a while but it would not last forever.

4) No the parvo virus is not related to the Ebola virus.

5) If the dog had had his full set of shots he would have been unlikely to get parvo.

ChaliceParvo is a viral disease that attacks the digestive system. The only treatment is supportive care. Give the dog fluids to prevent dehydration and loss of proteins, and treat the symptoms. The rest is up to the dog.

Yes, rottweilers do generally have poor immune systems.

Yes, if the dog manages to survive Parvo it can get Parvo again. The key word here is IF. Even with treatment, a dog’s chances of survival are still only 50/50. Without treatment, the dog’s chances are nill.

If the puppy had received a DHLPP vaccination, he would not have gotten sick.I am very sorry for the loss of your puppy.

I can’t answer most of your questions, but we just had an article in our local paper explaining that the parvo virus is getting alot stronger and most vets are now doing four vaccinations instead of just three. It also stated that in the past they were abe to save the majority of the dogs but now most that have come down with the parvo virus are dying because the new strain of the virus is resistant to the standard treatment.

I am also pretty sure that at 12 weeks, your puppy was too young to have all of the required shots. 1. It sounds like your vet did the standard supportive care for parvo. Survival is at best 50-50 with proper care. Without it, virtually all dogs with parvo die.

2. Rottweilers have no better or worse immune systems than other breeds. Your pup was just unlucky.

3. They can get it again. They can get a different strain (there are several) or the immunity from the original bout can wear off over time. However older dogs are less susceptible than pups.

4. It’s different than ebola, which is 100% fatal, even with treatment and the major symptom in humans is bleeding out. The reason ebola is not common is it tends to be self-limiting – it kills all its victims quickly, so it’s harder to spread. Parvo virus does not kill all its victims and the virus is very hardy so it spreads easily.

5. Yes, your friend made it more likely for your pup to get the virus by only having one vaccination. Until all 3 boosters are given, the dog does not have full protection and needs to be kept away from places where the virus may be contracted.Supportive treatment is all one can do. Fluids and medication to help try and stop the vomiting and diarrhea are the general course of treatment.

Rottis seem to be one of the breeds that are more suseptable to getting parvo.

Dogs will not get parvo again.

It is NOT like ebola. In ebloa you bleed from EVERYWHERE. Every orifice you have, and even from your pores.

Generally, if the puppy is up to date on vaccines…like has finished the series, they are fine. Or at least they will not get it as badly.

I don’t think you can sue the friend. You should have asked for proof if you were that concerned about the vaccine status, and then should have taken him to the vet. At 12 weeks, he would not have been done with the series anyway, and some vets will vaccinate Rottis until 16 weeks of age.

www.metpet.com/Reference/Dogs/Hea…Well I can help answer a few of your questions, but I’m not sure about number 2 and 4.

Most vets will treat parvo by administering IV fluids and giving a powerful antibiotics. By giving fluid sub-q (in the skin) that will help some, but with the chronic diarrhea and vomiting that’s why they need an IV. Your puppy should have been hospitalized.

Without having the proper vaccines, dogs can get parvo again. It mainly occurs in puppies, but I have seen an older dog, around 10-15 years old, get parvo and he died.

There’s a chance that your puppy wouldn’t have died if he was up-to-date on shots, then again a puppies immune system isn’t mature until around 1 year to 1 1/2 years of age.

a havanese mixed with a boston terrior

if anyone has any pictures or can find any that would be great

Why Does My Dog Bite Me?

I have a 5 1/2 month old german shepard mixed puppy and Every time I go outside he runs towards me and jumps and nips at me. At first it’s not aggresive but as I tell him to stop he will growl, bite, and attack me. He does not act this way to anyone else in our family, only to me.I tell him to stop in a stern voice and I bring newspapers out there to protect myself. Please help me?!He’s a puppy, this is very normal play puppy behaviour. You just nee dto train him that such behaviour is not acceptable play behaviour.

copy and pasted from aspca.org

What to do:

- Substitute a toy or chew bone when the puppy tries to chew on fingers or toes.

- Puppies tend to mouth hands whenever stroked and patted. When you pat the puppy, distract him by feeding tiny pieces of treat from your other hand. This will accustom the pup to being touched without mouthing.

- Give a high-pitched yelp, as if you are in pain, when the puppy bites too hard. This should startle the puppy and cause him to stop, at least momentarily. Praise the puppy for stopping and/or for licking you.

- Time out can be effective, especially for curbing mouthing in older puppies and adolescent dogs. When you receive a hard bite, give a high-pitched yelp and (a) walk away from the puppy and ignore for 30-60 seconds, OR (b) leave the room for 30-60 seconds. Option B is only feasible if your belongings will be safe from the puppy and if the puppy will be safe left where he is.

- Encourage non-contact forms of play, such as fetch and tug-of-war, rather than wrestling and rough play.

- Provide plenty of interesting and novel toys so the puppy will be inclined to play with these.

- Provide plenty of opportunity for your dog to play with other puppies and with friendly adult dogs. It’s important that he can engage with non-human playmates.

- Be patient and understanding. Playful mouthing is normal behavior for a puppy or young dog.

What not to do:

- Avoid enticing the puppy to play by waving your fingers or toes in his face or slapping the sides of his face.

- You should not discourage the puppy from playing with you. Play builds a strong bond between the dog and his human family. The objective is to teach the puppy to play gently—not to stop play altogether. – Avoid jerking your hands or feet away from the puppy when he mouths. This encourages him to jump forward and grab at you. It’s much more effective to let your hands or feet go limp so you aren’t much “fun” for him to mouth.

- Physical punishment for playful mouthing (slapping, hitting, etc.) can make the puppy afraid of you and could even cause the mouthing to escalate into aggression. We’ve heard of various “caveman” methods such as scruff shaking, whacking the pup on the nose, sticking fingers down a pup’s throat—these are cruel and inhumane.

Bite Inhibition

Teaching a puppy to modify his mouthing behavior is an opportunity to teach him bite inhibition. Bite inhibition refers to a dog’s ability to control and inhibit the force of his mouthing. A puppy or dog who hasn’t learned bite inhibition may not recognize the sensitivity of human skin and bite too hard, even in play. Some behaviorists and trainers maintain that a dog who understands the amount of force necessary to hurt people, if ever in a situation where he does actually bite a person in a non-playful manner, will be less likely to bite and break skin.

To teach your puppy bite inhibition, first you will encourage him to play with your hands. Continue play until the puppy bites especially hard. Immediately give a high-pitched yelp and let your hand go limp. When the puppy startles and turns to look at you or looks around, remove your hand. Ignore the puppy for 10-20 seconds or, if he resumes mouthing, get up and move away for 10-20 seconds.

The next step is to return and encourage the puppy to play with you again. This is critical for teaching the puppy that if he is gentle, play continues–but if he is too rough, play stops. Play with the pup until he bites hard again and repeat the sequence. As you detect that the puppy is inhibiting those really hard bites, target slightly less painful bites. Persist with the process until the puppy can play with your hands but control the force of his bites to the extent that you feel little or no pressure at all. This can take as little as a day, or as long as a few weeks. Sounds like your puppy wants to play with you- he is playing too rough and you need to check him. Next time tell him to stop, then turn around and walk out of the room- make sure to put your back to him. rough play= no play

Use a bottle of pennies- when he lounges at you the sound will avert his attention away from you and then use the intructions i gave above

good luck

-establish yourself as pack leader, spend more time with your pup, socialize him while he’s still young- check out some local dog parks- some of the best teachers are other adult dogsWith respect, you need to read a couple of books or watch some videos on raising and training dogs. I also suggest you watch two TV shows that would be helpful: "The Dog Whisperer," with Cesar Millan, on Nat. Geo., and "It’s Me or the Dog," with Victoria Stillwell, on Animal Planet. Both are excellent programs and will help you with all such issues. He is playing! Don’ t let him dominate you and don’t hit him with a newspaper. Get a toy that he likes and give him that to play with when he does this. Put your knee up to his chest or your leg and push him away gently and tell him "no!". He is still a puppy and it will take time, but be consistent and firm.Your dog needs some serious obedience training. Seek out a professional behaviorist to help you out. His behavior is not acceptable.I don’t know if your dog is chained or out 24/7 but if he is go to the site below

www.dogsdeservebetter.org

Is the pup kept outdoors? Most likely he is excited to have someone to finally interact with. Yelling at him or trying to pull away only frustrate and further excite him so he escalates to growling and harder biting. Don’t go outside with newspapers, go outside with a toy. When he comes to you, toss the toy for him and play with the dog. He also needs interesting toys to keep him from getting bored. Though, really, he should be brought inside.

If you have trouble getting this under control you should have a private trainer come to your home to observe the dog’s behavior and tell you how to proceed.

I’m the one who feeds him, walks him, gives him attention etc. Yet he hates me. When he wants to play, I try to play with him. But he will stop playing immediately. If my brother then starts playing with him, he will be really playful again. He does nothing for him!

The only time he likes me is when other dogs are saying hello to me, and he gets jealous.

My aunties dog loves me waaayyyy more than my own dog. Yet I treat them the same.

It just really upsets me that I put in all the hard work and he still hates me. Is there anyway of getting him to like me? Should I just ignore him completely?

Is there anything to keep the dogs water from freezing?

Looking for something to add to the dogs water to keep it from freezing. I understand what you mean…. some people here are so idiotic… my dogs sleep inside but they do go out and play alot in the yard so i alwasy keep a freash buket of water outside just incase they get thirsty…. over night the bucket usually freezes…. the only thing you can do is fill it half way with HOT water and the rest of the way with room tempo water… this will prevent it from freezing throught the day.. but at night it will eventualy freeze…. your other option is using those heated bowls but they are expensive…There are quite a few things on the market you can get to keep the water flowing, generally if the water flows it wont freeze

Also a good one is to float a ball in it – a light cheap plastic one will work best. As it bobs in the water it will keep the area rounds it from freezing and the dog will be able to get the water underneath – People often use it when they have fish outdoors too so they can get to the surface.

Good question cause dogs can get just as dehydrated in the cold as in the heat!

Jules xYou don’t want to add anything to the water, but you can get heated water buckets at a farm supply store. They are typically used for livestock, but would be suitable for a dog. Also, if your dog is going to be out in freezing temps, make sure they have a nice thick coat and a good snug dog house to get out of the weather.Are you the same person who said they put antifreeze in the water and your question got deleted?

How about moving your dog’s bowl and him inside…. It annoys me when people leave their pets outside 24/7. How would you like to be out in all that cold or extreme heat.

While your dog is out there freezing, your sitting inside your cozy, warm house. CAN YOU SAY CRUELYes. At my house, we have bought a heated dog dish. It is outside, and you can plug it in to warm up the water so that it does not freeze. It worked all through last winter, and I live about a thousand feet above a ski town.Here’s a good idea: Put YOUR water outside, and bring the dog and his water INSIDE!! Move his bed inside, and your’s outside! I bet this exercise might convince you it’s too cold out!!!They make heaters for bird baths to keep the water thawed, maybe they have something like that for dog bowls.Bring the dog and water inside. How would you like to be outside freezing 24/7?you can buy a electric bowl for dogsKeep your dog and his water indoors in the winter.bring it and dog inside

Ok he has medicine But he wont eat or drink? he drank some tea and Milk and ate some roast! he dont eat dogfood how to get him to eat

Why does my dog lay on its back everytime i get near it?

Your dog is being submissive, and thats a good thing! so many owners would want that from their dog because it shows that your dog understands that you are the leader and they are not.You can watch shows like the Dog Whisperer, its me or the dog, or animal planet. These are all great shows that explain these things.

Or sometimes, dogs do that just so you can scratch their belly.

Keep up the goood work, you must be a good owner!It’s a sign of submission. Your dog is respecting you as pack leader. This is a good thing!

With respect, you need to read a couple of books or watch some videos on raising and training dogs. I also suggest you watch two TV shows that would be helpful: "The Dog Whisperer," with Cesar Millan, on Nat. Geo., and "It’s Me or the Dog," with Victoria Stillwell, on Animal Planet. Both are excellent programs and will help you with all such issues. It’s just submissive behavior…and s/he might be hoping to get a belly-scritch out of it. It might be a good thing, but it might be a sign that she is anxious about the leadership in her pack; dogs that perceive gaps in pack leadership instinctively feel the need to fill those gaps, but that puts a lot of pressure on those who aren’t natural born leaders. They’d prefer someone else take charge, and they’ll let you know it.I don’t know who’s giving all the thumbs down to the people who are saying that the dog is being submissive, but those people are correct.

Dogs are pack animals and in the pack, there is a hierarchy. The dogs that are lower in the pack will be submissive to those higher. One of the ways in which they demonstrate their submission is by showing their bellies. It’s as if to say, "I am not a threat to you… I am on my back… I cannot attack you from this position… here is my vulnerable area (abdomen)".

When a human/human family has a dog, the human(s) become the dog’s pack. When your dog does that in front of you, he is showing his submission to you… showing that he sees you as the alpha, which is a good thing. If he gets a belly rub out of the deal, that’s a bonus.That’s a submissive pose, dogs will do that at the park when surrounded by other dogs it’s the dogs way of saying "ok I will submit to you and I’m open minded" if your dog does this, ignore the behavior [which means don't pet him when he's doing it, I mean walk away] and over time he’ll stop.He may be asking for a belly rub.

He may be showing you that you are the leader.

He may be telling you that you are making him anxious.

Hard to know without seeing the body language and knowing the context.He might just love his belly rubbed. Every time I pet my dog, on his head or back, he rolls over so I can scratch his belly.It’s being submissive and acknowledging you as the alpha dog.I am so glad that you asked this question. My dog does that to me all the time…now I know the reason why…THANKS!Mine rolls over on her back and grins and watches me. I know she is wanting a belly rub!Your dog is showing submssion.he is playing around n is wanting to b touched.. jus coz he has missed u..:-)He’s being submissive.rub his belly

Any other ideas/tips/advice or potential homeopathic ear mite solution